Discovering the fine wines of Turkey ? and maybe some raki too

It's arguably relatively unusual to find an above-average wine menu in a non-European "Mediterranean" restaurant, still less one which is complemented by a discrete and - in this case - quite extravagant cocktails list.

Alla Turca's drinks offer is literally unique. This is partially due to the list carefully assembled with wines sourced mainly through blue chip wholesale supplier Forth Wines, but also because the restaurant has on its staff an acknowledged master of Scotland's renascent cocktails scene.

The inherent knowledge of excellent drinks products shines through in every category: for example the "rum" entry alone includes premium brands including Matusalem 15 Year Old Gran Reserva, and, from Trinidad, Mount Gay Extra Old. There is an elite selection of the national drink too, including deluxe blend Bailie Nicol Jarvie (or "BNJ" as it's now widely known), Johnny Walker Black Label and Dewar's 12 Year Old. As a hint of the skill involved in assembling this list, it's worth nothing that while Dewar's has only recently been reintroduced to its native country it's a massive brand name in the USA, as of course is Johnny Walker: the inclusion of these Scotch whiskies is an implicit recognition that many future diners will be conference guests from all over the world - but particularly North America.

The spirits list also boasts a bewildering array of top range vodkas, for example Ketel One and Zubrowka Bison Grass, of the sort usually only found in the very best cocktail bars. There is a tight but elite selection of gins - including two seldom-spotted Seagram-branded gins; and also the redoubtable Plymouth, sometimes argued to be the greatest of them all.

Then there's the raki. It is just possible Alla Turca is the only restaurant in the west to list two varieties of this most famous of Turkish spirits (also hugely popular in those parts of Greece once occupied by Turkey); Yeni Raki (in its quirky curvy bottle) and Tekirdag Raki. Essentially a digestif, raki is a social custom as much as a drink - typically sipped by groups of diners along with plates of mezes (mixed starters which fulfil the same function as Spanish tapas). Often 80 or 90 per cent proof it is grape brandy flavoured with raisins and aniseed, and is diluted with water or ice to taste - definitely one to be savoured and never hurried.

Many Turks choose to abstain from all alcohol for religious reasons, of course, but historically the Ottoman domains encompassed numerous people of persuasions or sects which were, and whose descendants remain, perfectly relaxed about drinking; in neighbouring Persia the wine-loving tradition immortalised in the Rubaiyyat poetry of Omar Khayam had its counterpoint among the mountain vineyards of Ottoman Turkey, where today's wines are for many Europeans an amazing secret waiting to be discovered.

At Alla Turca the Turkish wines are the ones at the dearer end of the scale, and as a non-expert asked to sample a nice Turkish white against an Italian Pinot Grigio I couldn't risk insulting either nation by deciding which I liked most: for many, I suspect, discovering wines such as Kavaklidere Angora White 2005 ("Anatolia's new star") will be a major part of enjoying the whole dining experience. Sections which carry the dearest wines aim to provide connoisseurs with extensive choice for a special treat - the ultimate luxury option here is Chateau Margaux 1er Cru Classe 2002 - Bordeaux, at #250 the bottle. House wine, by contrast, is #4.50 per glass, and is guaranteed by the management to be "a very good glass of wine at that price". It acknowledges that in an increasingly drinks-aware and health-conscious world many will only wish one glass of wine with a meal, and that in any case there's a whole trend towards drinking less but also drinking higher quality. A good place to start with the Turkish selection might be a glass of Doluca Antique Red 2004 ("the best-selling Turkish classic, easy drinking, fruity and fresh wine in oak barrels.")

Italy, Spain, France, Chile, Australia and South Africa are all well-represented - topped off by a trio of roses from Turkey, Italy and France.

There's a full selection of Champagnes too, even before you consider the extravagant Champagne cocktails: "Snow Queen" is Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial, Belvedere and Rose Sugar.

On the same list, meanwhile, there are no less than seven US whiskeys and Bourbons, half a dozen cognacs, and five tequilas - none of them "average brands".

But if you are having just that one special drink, and you want to try something really louche, why not ask for a Turkish-spiced Tatanka? It's a long drink concoction of Zubrowka vodka, Teichenne vanilla, apple, cinnamon, sugar and lemon. Or you could be a bit more traditional and go for an Aberfeldy Mist: Dewar's 12 Year Old, lemon soda, Sinoma lavender, lemon, and bitters.

Alla Turca's staff includes knowledgable people who will happily and intelligently advise on which wine may accompany a particular food, because the drinks selection is seen very much as a partner to the food menu rather than a mere adjunct.

Like the food menu, too, it definitely repays careful study. The truth is that for wines and spirits this restaurant has a more impressive selection - and that certainly includes cocktails - than many of even the smartest and most self-regarding city centre bars.

Alla Turca Restaurant