Athens - by Mary Irvine - Glasgow West End

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Athens – by Mary Irvine

Home is where the heart is

Hi there,
First of all I must give a general apology to any of my Greek friends if I err at any time with the Greek translations! I really am spoilt for choice in writing about Greece so I’ve decided to concentrate on specific places – one at a time.

Athens, the city of my heart – η Αθήνα, η πόλη της καρδιάς μου

In the early sixties I became a great fan of Nana Mouskouri. Her voice had such clarity and pureness rarely heard; it was a delight. A particular favourite was ‘The White Rose of Athens’(το λευκό τριαντάφυλλο της Αθήνας). Listening to that I never dreamed I would, one day, be living in Athens.

When I flew into Athens for the first time I had the strangest feeling of arriving home. The feeling stayed with me the three days I wondered round Athens before setting off on a Classical Tour. I have flown into (and obviously out of!) Athens many times since then but that feeling is still with me.

Much later in life, after a year of preparation, during which I visited Athens frequently, including some weekends – absolutely vital to the arrangements required for my ‘gap’ year – I took unpaid leave of absence from the Sixth Form College where I earned my crust and moved to Athens, just for a year. Well, to be more accurate I had taken a garconerie in Piraeus, but that was only till I got a job in Athens and then I could find an apartment nearby to work. Yes, that’s right. I didn’t actually have a job for definite but was fairly confident it wouldn’t be a problem. More later on dealing with problems in Greece!

I eventually returned to the UK some 16 years later. And thereby hangs a tale…
However, it is of Athens I wish to write. It’s the most beautiful, the most wondrous and, sadly, possibly the most polluted city in Europe. From my balcony in the suburb of Ambelokipi I could clearly see the pretty, pink cloud, hanging over the city, signalling high pollution.

Athens rests in a bowl surrounded by mountains. A strong wind clears the pollution temporarily. Government measures, such as creating more green areas and restricting traffic have been taken, although any casual tourist might have cause to doubt that. Traffic is a big problem in the centre and the rule of thumb would seem to be if there are no free parking spots, use the pavement. I once drove some visitors to the National Museum. They were appalled when I parked not on a corner but across it. I don’t recommend that anyone tries this. The fines can be quite heavy and instant. A warning to pedestrians. Take care when using a green man crossing. A lit green man doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe to cross but it does give you a sporting chance!

I love Athens in so many different ways, the way the city has sprawled its way outwards, the mixture of old and new, the night-life, the hustle and bustle, the noise, the night-life, the taxi drivers, the kamaki (καμάκι*), the bus drivers who manage – I think – to remain sane through it all, the cosmopolitan atmosphere, did I mention the night-life?

The photos, I hope, will give a flavour of my Athens. Probably some of you will recognise the locations. Next time I’m going to get on my soap-box and declaim on the Elgin Marbles. I may even regale you with encounters with kamaki.
* literally the kamaki is a trident /harpoon – is that any