Home » Pat's Home Page Blog » Wully Davidson: Bus Pass Rambles, Kerrera – Hutcheson’s Monument Walk

Wully Davidson: Bus Pass Rambles, Kerrera – Hutcheson’s Monument Walk

Last year, I did the southern loop walk on the island of Kerrera, near Oban. I intended doing the smaller northern loop this year, and to combine it with a walk to Hutcheson’s monument at the northern end of the island. Two years ago, Kerrera got its first tarmacked roads, and the northern loop joins the road half way between the ferry terminal and Hutcheson’s monument, 2 miles to the north.

Mull ferry returning to Oban

Hutcheson’s Monument

However, reading some accounts by walkers, I noticed that there was a word that tended to recur – ‘boggy’. As the west of Scotland has had more than 200% of its average rainfall since the start of August, I had a good idea of what I’d be letting myself in for, and decided just to do the straight walk to the monument on the tarmacked road instead. Hutcheson’s monument is a granite obelisk erected in 1883 to commemorate David Hutcheson, who was the architect of Scotland’s ferry infrastructure in the latter half of the 19th century.

Traffic approaching Rest and be Thankful

The bus to Oban had to take the old military road at Rest and be Thankful, as there had been a landslip. However, the ditches and fences created to cope with the apparently never ending landslips that occur there after very wet weather appeared to have done their job, and the return trip took the usual route. This, and roadworks further along, meant the bus got into Oban about 15 minutes late.

Oban from Hutcheson’s Monument

Oban wasn’t ‘heaving’ with tourists, the way it is in mid summer, but it was still fairly busy, and American accents still heard everywhere. I had a pint of Dark Island beer in Wetherspoon’s, just for the energy boost, of course, and then caught a taxi to Gallanach ferry terminal. Payment is still by smartphone, but if, like me, you don’t have a phone, they let you travel anyway, and ask you to pay at the Oban ferry terminal when you return, which I did. You can buy a ticket at the main ferry terminal office in Oban, before heading for Gallanach. The return fare is £3.50.

Gallanach to Kerrera

The tiny ferry can only take 12 passengers at a time, and I positioned myself on the jetty to make sure I got on, as numbers of intending passengers were increasing. A few, including two Nova Scotians, didn’t get on, and would have to wait for the next one. However, as the ferry was just shuttling back and forth, as it does when there’s increased demand, they wouldn’t have had long to wait. It’s a 5 minute crossing, and although the timetable shows a crossing every 30 minutes, that isn’t adhered to.

Ferry at Kerrera

Last year, I heard four cuckoos, but none today. Being late in the year, maybe they’ve migrated back to Africa, or maybe their calls are a mating thing, and they’ve done all that. Also, no greylag geese, which were a common sight last year. That one’s more of a puzzle. Maybe they move on after raising their broods. The Solway Firth is a popular goose hang out. I saw about half a dozen rabbits, mostly youngsters. The sheep on Kerrera are the tamest sheep I’ve seen anywhere.

Sheep on Kerrera

The two mile walk to the monument was pretty straightforward, apart from a very steep incline at halfway. Oddly, the tarmac surface petered out before the yacht marina at the northern end. Maybe they ran out of tar. The approach to the monument was muddy, as expected, and it was a fairly steep, but brief, climb. The views were fantastic. Returning back, I had a half hour wait for the only bus to go from Gallanach to Oban at 1612. It’s a school bus, but takes passengers as well. It actually arrived at 1608, travelled south to some holiday homes, then returned to arrive back at Gallanach at 1612, before carrying on to Oban. Funny thing is, I was the only passenger on it the whole time. If we get a prolonged spell of good weather next year, I’ll maybe go back and do the northern loop. But, I don’t really need an excuse to visit Kerrera. It’s become my favourite place in Scotland.

Wully Davidson, September, 2024

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