Greek Heritage and The Elgin Marbles Petition by Mary Irvine, Writer and Philhellene
The Elgin Marbles
The Elgin Marbles – more correctly the Parthenon marbles (Tα Μάρμαρα του Παρθενώνα) according to the British Museum – less emotive methinks, a varied collection of sculptures, architectural features, inscriptions, were ‘obtained’ by Lord Elgin during the early nineteenth century. Dates differ according to which source one accesses! He reportedly purchased them from the Ottoman authorities, then in power in Greece. Large scale removal of objects of historical value was rife throughout the world at this time and we shouldn’t judge people’s actions in those times by our modern views. I do not propose to enter into the argument about the legality of either this particular transaction or the legitimacy of that Government. It’s an argument I believe is now spurious and does not have any bearing on the course of action I and many others believe should now be taken.
National Hellenic Museum
I had always believed that the friezes which form the greater part of the collection, at present on display in the British Museum and in pristine condition, should remain there until such time as they could be displayed in Greece in a manner befitting their provenance. This belief was strengthened when I first saw the state of the ones that had been left in situ. However, as I followed the efforts and progress in the indigenous restoration and preservation of these latter friezes I began to feel that the time may not be long off for a re-uniting.
I do remember a certain actress – fabulous as Phaedra, in the film of that name – political activist and later Minister of Culture for the PASOK party, coming over to the UK and making a very impassioned plea, worthy of any Greek tragedy, for the return of the collection to Greece. The approach was ‘wrong’. The phlegmatic (good Greek word) British may have responded more favourably to a quiet discussion with reasoned argument. But I digress…
I wasn’t convinced the friezes should be returned until the new museum, long promised, actually materialised. Melina Mercouri, above mentioned actress, was instrumental in instigating the idea. Unfortunately she never lived to see this idea come to fruition.
Aided by grants and the support of the Mercouri Foundation the construction was dogged by bad luck/problems/ delays. One of the most serious ones occurred when the ruins of an ancient city were discovered and there were concerns that these would be destroyed. They were eventually fully excavated and incorporated into the Museum by placing the actual building on columns leaving the ruins clearly visible.
It was hoped to have the building completed by 2004 to coincide with the Olympic Games in Athens. It was not until 2007 that the building was finished. The moving of all the artefacts began and the Museum was finally opened to the public in 2009. I had left Greece for Ye Bonny Banks in 2006 but made a special visit to Athens in 2010.
Athens – a travel guide
Now for the travel guide! I would go through the Plaka (η Πλάκα) (but if it’s your first visit that’s not a good idea. Syntagma Square (πλατεία Συντάγματος) is a good starting point. You can watch the changing of the evzones (Ευζώνων) – they’re the soldiers in short white skirts (in summer) and pom-poms on their clogs. With your back to the Parliament building turn left and keep walking along Vasilissis Amalias Avenue. (Λεωφόρος Βασιλίσσης Σοφίας) On the left you’ll pass the Royal Garden – or the National Garden, (ο Εθνικός Κήπος) depends on your politics. Then you’ll come to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, (ο Ναός του Ολυμπίου Διός) also on your left, nestling behind Hadrian’s Arch (αψίδα του Αδριανού) – same man who built our wall – built a lot of walls did Hadrian! Almost opposite is Dionysos Street. You do need to cross Amalias at some point, earlier would be better than later. A pleasant walk up Theatro Dionysos (Θέατρο Διόνυσος) and the New Museum is on your left, about 2/3rds of the way up the slope before it veers to the right and the Acropolis (η Ακρόπολη) itself!
At my first visit I had to skirt round the glass floors covering some ruins in front of the museum. Couldn’t cope with the feeling of falling. I next met the owl of Athena, in her role as goddess of wisdom, guarding the entrance. I qualified for free entrance by virtue of a student card – that always confused Greeks who are not used to ‘mature’ students!
The inside was full of natural light streaming through the glass walls which filter damaging heat and rays.
The Parthenon Collection Petition
Then began a wonderful journey. A journey through the Parthenon friezes cannot be described. You have to experience them to appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship.
My admiration was intermittently interrupted by plaster casts which broke the smooth lines of the originals. The legend too often repeated: Original in the British Museum. It was then that I was finally convinced; The Parthenon Collection should be re-united so they could be displayed as an entity. I have signed the online petition for their return and ask others to do likewise.
On Seeing the Elgin Marbles
By John Keats
My spirit is too weak — mortality
Weighs heavily on me like unwilling sleep,
And each imagined pinnacle and steep
Of godlike hardship, tells me I must die
Like a sick Eagle looking at the sky.
Yet ’tis a gentle luxury to weep
That I have not the cloudy winds to keep
Fresh for the opening of the morning’s eye.
Such dim-conceivéd glories of the brain
Bring round the heart an indescribable feud;
So do these wonders a most dizzy pain,
That mingles Grecian grandeur with the rude
Wasting of old Time — with a billowy main —
A sun — a shadow of a magnitude.
Link for petition – www.returnthemarbles.com
Images by Mary Ann O’Rourke on Flickr
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