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Bus Pass Rambles: From Fort William to Mallaig

This trip didn’t quite go to plan. I got the Ember E5 electric bus to Fort William from Buchanan bus station at 0800, arriving in Fort William at 1115. The E5 takes a different route from the Citylink bus, going via Glasgow airport, while the Citylink travels along Great Western Road. I’d then take the bus to Mallaig.

Glen Coe

I traveled from Fort William to Mallaig by train a few years ago, but had never done the bus trip. The E5 didn’t go into the bus station, instead terminating in a car park just beyond it. It took me a few minutes to get my bearings, and head in the direction of the town centre.

Fort William High Sreet

Before getting the Mallaig bus, I planned to get the bus for a scenic trip down Glen Nevis. It would leave at 1230 and take 20 minutes to reach the Lower Falls car park. However, I’d have to get the same bus back at 1300, to get the Mallaig bus, so wouldn’t have time to do any sightseeing.  But, the bus didn’t show up, so I had to content myself with a stroll around Fort William.

The Glen Nevis road continues on for two miles as a single track road after the Lower Falls car park, so it’s too narrow for a bus, which is a pity, as there’s a great walk out to Steall Falls, the second highest waterfall in the UK, which begins at the end of the road. The walk is about 2.75 miles, there and back, and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours at a leisurely pace. It’s very popular, and would probably get too busy for my liking in the summer. But, it’s not easy, and there’s actually a sign at the start which says ‘Danger of Death’, which is something I’ve never seen before. It can be particularly tricky after rain, and some parts are more like rock scrambling.

Mallaig

Road to Mallaig

The Mallaig bus left at 1325 and arrived at 1455. I’d have 55 minutes in town before getting the bus back from the stop across from the boatyard at 1550. It was a very scenic trip, but not as good as the train journey, which has a reputation as the most scenic train journey in the world. The train leaves Fort William at 1218 and arrives in Mallaig at 1340. Cost of single ticket £17. So, you could have 2 hours 10 minutes in town before getting the bus back. However, if my understanding of the web page is right, you can get an off peak day return for £19. I have a problem getting my head around train ticket pricing.

Mallaig Harbour

Beach Near Mallaig

Mallaig is a ferry terminal for Armadale, in Skye, Lochboisdale in South Uist, and the small isles of Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. It’s also the terminus of the West Highland Railway line from Queen St station, so you’d expect it to be a tourist destination. However, I was unprepared for the sheer number of them. It has become very tourism oriented, and it’s a long time since it was a quaint fishing village off the beaten track. But, I’m one of those tourists, too.

Trains at Mallaig Station

Steam Train at Mallaig

The bus back arrived in Fort William at 1710. Citylink buses leave for Glasgow at 1740 and 1840, arriving at 2051 and 2146. The E5 leaves at 1814, arriving at 2115, presumably from the car park near the bus station.

Wullie Davidson, July, 2025

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