Helen Rose's Outdoor Diary: Braemar

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Helen Rose’s Outdoor Diary: Braemar

July, 2025

In springtime the Glasgow HF Outdoor Club ‘s weekend was to Braemar. I’ve been in Braemar many times as there are lots of high mountains around. This time was to be different and a new experience on low level walks so the area would be seen with a different perspective.

Hostel

Braemar is a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, around 93 kilometres west of Aberdeen in the Highlands. It is the closest significantly-sized settlement to the upper course of the River Dee, sitting at an elevation of 339 metres.. Most famous for its association with Queen Victoria, its historical significance extends back much further to both the first and second Jacobite rebellions. The Jacobite risings were a series of uprisings and rebellions in Scotland and England between 1689 and 1746, driven by the desire to restore the Stuart dynasty to the thrones of Great Britain and Ireland. These uprisings were primarily supported by the Jacobites, who believed in the legitimacy of the Stuart monarchs, particularly James II and his descendants.

The Journey

The journey from Glasgow by public transport was fairly long involving the train to Aberdeen and then a local bus to Braemar. From the train we could see the vast fields of brilliant yellow of oil seed rape. Although we think of oilseed rape as a ‘new’ crop, brightening up fields with their yellow show in spring and early summer, it was first recorded in the 14th century and 500 years later was used as a lubricating oil for steam engines. Photography was difficult as the train was travelling at speed.

Braemar

We were based at the SYHA Hostel in Braemar, next door to the Mountains Rescue Centre. Mountains Rescue is a feature in Scottish Hillwalking and a very important service run by experienced Volunteers who have saved many lives. We were to have two days walking over the weekend. Although a variety of high level walks on offer by the club, our little group had signed up for the low level walks. We spotted Baby Rabbits in the garden of the hostel.

Braemar is a pretty village with a waterfall in the centre. Braemar’s architectural style is characterised by a mix of historical influences, including Scottish vernacular architecture and Victorian-era additions.

Clais Fhearnaig Circuit from Linn o Dee

On Saturday, we car shared to drive to Linn O’Dee where there is a National Trust for Scotland Car Park. Maura led the walk which was difficult for her bearing in mind weekend away walks are often not reccied which puts a lot of pressure on the leader. We had intermittent rain throughout the day. We walked along by the River Dee on a bulldozed track. The River Dee in various locations features rocks that naturally form holes, sometimes referred to as “hag stones” or “adder stones”. These stones, with holes through them, are often believed to have magical or healing properties.

We stopped for lunch before leaving the track and heading uphill on a walkers path up to an unnamed lochan.

Not only had the oilseed rape being so bright but gorse was also a dazzling yellow. We had a ‘wee sit doon’ at the loch to admire the glen before walking through it with scree slopes to the side of the glen

That evening we had dinner at Farquharson’s Pub where venison from the local Mar Lodge Estate was on the menu. Mar Lodge Estate has been a highland sporting estate for many years, with deer management practices, including commercial stalking, being a key part of its operations

Loch Muick Circular

On the second day walk we headed for Loch Muick on the Balmoral Estate. We were parked at the Visitors Centre there about a 45 minute drive from Braemar. After passing the boathouse we headed to our lunch stop at a bothy.

Glas-allt-Shiel is a lodge by the shore of Loch Muick. In its present form it was built in 1868 by Queen Victoria, who called it Glassalt, It was to be to be what she called her “widow’s house” where she could escape from the world following the death of her husband Albert, Prince Consort of the United Kingdom. The back section is a bothy open for public use. It is the first time I have had lunch in a Royal Bothy! There were guitars available but none of our group played. There were candle holders on the wall and a stock of candles so we had lunch by candlelight. Even table and chairs and an upstairs sleeping area.

John Brown worked for the Queen for more than 30 years, his presence in her household sometimes leading to controversy and speculation that their relationship went beyond that of employer and servant. Was the house a meeting place for them?

Glas Allt Waterfall

At the back of the house, we followed the steep path to see the Glkas Allt Waterfall but we had a recent dry spell so the waterfall was not as spectacular as usual and little snow this year to melt. On the way, we met people descending from Lochnagar, a Munro that can be reached from various locations around it. We heard the sound of the curlews calling.

The Curlew is the largest European wading bird, found on estuaries in winter and moors in summer. https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/curlew

Beach

We continued on the path and around the loch on the beach there and around the other side of Loch Muick back to where we started walk which was about 12 miles in total.

Hostel Pie Fun

On the last night we dined in the Hostel which had very good catering facilities. Hostels have a free food shelf for dry goods and a shelf in the fridge for free food. This is still in date food that people leaving make available for anyone to use. Names here have been withheld to protect the guilty! One of the hostellers noticed a lemon meringue pie in the free food section of the fridge so decided a group should share it as dessert. However, while tucking in to the pie, other hosteller said it was their pie and they had put it in the wrong section of the fridge! Too late, it was mostly eaten but drink had been consumed and we all had a good laugh!

There were widevariations in the weather over the weekend from sunshine to mist and rain.

Thanks to James for arranging the weekend and Maura and John Paul for arranging and leading the low level walks

Helen Rose’s Outdoor Diary: Braemar