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Review by Joanna Blythsman, Restaurant Critic, Sunday Herald.

Room for Taste - Old World v New World

September, 2005

Excellence is usually not only determined by the quality of the good but also by the critic?s perception of quality. Wine possibly above all things can be analysed, scrutinised and made overly complicated; however certain facts regarding wine are known to all, the foremost being cork good - - - screw top bad, or so I thought.

When I had the pleasure to dine in Room Restaurant, Glasgow?s newest addition to the fine dining circuit, I was delighted to see that the theme for the Wine Evening was Old world vs. New World. I was accompanied by a good friend, Tony Coogan; musician, businessman, wine lover and general top chap.

Sporting a pair of full brogue black Grenson shoes and a tightly pressed pair of woollen trousers I was confident that my leaning to tradition would be evident. I must say that if anything, I wished only to have another opportunity to knock the new age nexus of delinquent rebels, the residue of the former colony called Australia ? oh how my hopes were dashed!

When entering Room one can clearly see that there have been many changes. No longer is there the essential prerequisite of the door bell ring, I personally found the doorbell outside the previous restaurant literally pointless. Did Gordon think that West Enders, were going to raid his restaurant and loot the linen?

The entry of Room is a positive shock to the senses; bright lights and smiling faces. The "S" Bar is located to the left of the entrance hall and reminds me of a ?hip? London bar. The cocktail Bar and the "S" bar dominate the area surrounded by various forms of modern art.

The wine evening began by being introduced to a chap called ?Douglas? ? the expert of the evening who was informative and evidently had an excellent knowledge of his trade. I also had the pleasure of spending some time with John Pallagi one of the Directors of Room who was not only a delight to spend time with, but also radiated enthusiasm for his new creation.

On entry we were given canap?s and two Sauvignons; Spy Valley sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, NZ, 2004 Sancerre Domaine de Chezatte Loire valley, France 2003

This was then followed by the main meal, which included:
Confit of home smoked salmon, cauliflower puree, Avruga caviar, beurre blanc
Chablis St Martin, Domaine Laroche, Burgundy, France 2003

Chicken & tarragon sausage, tomato and basil sorbet
Madfish unwooded, Great Southern, Western Australia 2004

Chilli spiked suckling pig, roasted scallop & pineapple crisp
Spy Valley, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2003

Roast breast of Duck, pomme galette with spinach & morel mushrooms
Bourgogne Pinot Noir ?Les Vendangeurs? Bouchard Aine & Fils, Burgandy, France 2002.

Chocolate mousse & profiteroles with home made nougat
Ch du Levant, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France 1998

Berry and Lemon curd pavlova
Glenguin Batrytised Semillon, Griffith, Australia, 2001

Throughout this culinary delight my pallet was set ablaze with delight not only due to the food but also the wine.

Each wine complimented the course to perfection like a blonde supermodel to a billionaire. The one thing that did make my brogues turn was my realisation that the majority of the ?New Age? wines were not only those that pleased me the most, but also the fact that most of these bottles were screw tops!

Some shocks (like walking into a lamppost) are bad; but as I have been shown, to find a new range of wines, is a true unadulterated joy.

Having dined at Room before the wine evening, I knew that the experience would be enjoyable. The food quantity and quality was excellent and paired with the wine to a degree that Bacchus would smile.

The future seems bright and possibly brighter without the previously essential corkscrew.